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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen (1989)
Page Views: 195 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A bold lead or easily toproped after climbing Sorry Poopsie or Conquest of the Stud Monkey.

Follow a seam that angles up to the right. Good TCU's protect the first crux (11a) as you pull around to the right side of the arete. Clip a bolt and climb up a small shallow groove leading up to another thin crux (11c). Above is a small overlap which must be passed on the right side of the arete (11b). After that the climb eases, especially if you're on toprope. For the lead, however, you will need to keep a cool head as you make some scary 5.10 moves about 15 feet out from a bolt.

Protection

4 bolts, small gear

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