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Routes in Loggerhead Buttress

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chester the Molester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chow Chow Chow T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunk Tank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Edge-u-cator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Goodhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hammerhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Here on the Inside T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lagerhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Le Nocturne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Log Jam T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Material Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Orange Juice Avenue T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simian Sex T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sink Like A Stone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sober Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sorry Poopsie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sow Sow Sow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stay Lady Stay Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swillar Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 382 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a nice varied crack climb near the right end of Loggerhead Buttress. The crack system is easily identified with an alcove with a broken oak tree near the bottom. From the alcove there are two variations. We took the right variation which I believe is named "Brown Eyed Girl" (5.9), and follows enjoyable hand jams and easy offwidthing up double cracks and a groove. The left variation begins with some difficult and poorly protected stemming moves getting out of the alcove and then ascends a chimney. This is supposedly 5.9 as well. Both these variations converge at a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.

The second pitch starts with a thinning splitter. Once it pinches down, step left to a fist crack and follow it past an old bolted anchor to arrive at an alcove. Out of the alcove is the crux offwidth. I squeezed a #6 Camalot in near the start and then walked my #5 with me, but having two #5's would have been much more useful. At the top of the offwidth scramble up and right to a bolted anchor.

Rappel the route to descend. One 70m works fine, a 60m might be stretching it so be careful. The rappel stations both have one older 3/8" bolt, and one new one that is bomber. It is also possible to link this into one long pitch if you properly extend your pieces, however you will need to bring extra 2-3" gear and make sure to save a 4.5" cam for the crux OW near the top.

Protection

Pro to 4.5"

Photos

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