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Routes in Narrows - South

Alma B S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Smile, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bomb Track S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Boys Sipping and Chipping Club, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Narrow Minded S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nerve Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old School S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prince of Squeeze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quocs Wok S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
River Runs Through It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rivers Edge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slim Shady (The Real Slim Shady 13a) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thunder Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11c-ish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walk the Plank S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian Loth & Matt Merton
Page Views: 309 total · 6/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An easier start to bypass the heinous thin crux of Alma and still enjoy the upper pods? An independent traversing odyssey through an unlikely line of pockets begging to be climbed? Regardless of how you look at it, Bomb Track is a worthy adventure linking intriguing features into a fun varied pitch.

Enter the Bomb Track by pulling into a right facing dihedral lined with pockets. Crimp, jam, undercling, arm bar your way to the 3rd bolt then bust a hard left, traversing along more pockets to reach the base of the first shell hole. Tackle the first technical crux, figuring out an elaborate sequence to enter this hole and meet with Alma B. Clipping that 6th bolt (4th of Alma) with a runner will help control rope drag but add a bit of intimidation to the mix...
Crawl into the next smaller pod by milking amazing pockets and take a nap in there. Once you feel refreshed devise a way to extricate yourself from the pod, go through a tough bulge and slab your way to a giant undercling (and an optional great rest in a crack). Bust left on the slab, executing a thin crux to reach excellent pockets (this may be much harder for shorter climbers and involve some serious friction). A short insecure lieback leads to huge holes in a roof and a final pull over the lip to the chains.

I doubt you could clean this one without taking a monster swing into one of the planks. Better have someone ready to second and take monster swing into thin air if they botch the traversing sequences.

Location

Bomb Track starts to the right of a small cave 15' to right of Alma B and follows an obvious weakness littered with big pockets, traversing left to merge with Alma. The next route to the right is the obvious The Big Smile

Protection

9 bolts to cold shuts over the lip. Maybe a long runner for the 6th clip (1st shared with Alma) as the route straighten up after that.

Photos

David LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.12b
David LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
  5.12b
Lower resting hold came off Jun 30, 2015

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