Elevation: 6,663 ft
GPS: 40.492, -112.584 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,825 total · 885/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn right, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Willow Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Rivers Edge
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Prince of Squeeze
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
La Fin Du Monde
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 52
Walk the Plank
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 38
Teflon Guerrilla
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 48
Refiner
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 38
Black Sails
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Someday Syndrome
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Narrowpathic
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Labor Fruits
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
TKO
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Nerve Agent
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Slim Shady
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Summary Judgement
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
Narrow Minded
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rivers Edge Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prince of Squeeze Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
La Fin Du Monde Lover's Leap
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Walk the Plank Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 52
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Teflon Guerrilla Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 38
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Refiner Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 48
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Sails Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 38
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Someday Syndrome Narrows > Lower Narrows > Lower Narrows
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Narrowpathic Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Labor Fruits Fern's Ledge
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
TKO Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Nerve Agent Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Slim Shady Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Summary Judgement Lover's Leap
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Narrow Minded Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 4
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Willow Canyon »

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