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Elevation: 6,663 ft 2,031 m
GPS: 40.49242, -112.58382
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 109,943 total · 873/month
Shared By: Doug Argyle on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

Description Suggest change

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There Suggest change

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn right, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Willow Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 93
Walk the Plank
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Teflon Guerrilla
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 59
Black Sails
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Someday Syndrome
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Narrowpathic
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Labor Fruits
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
The Fat Boys Sipping and Chippin…
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Sands of Time (extension)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 20
TKO
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 17
Nerve Agent
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 37
Slim Shady
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Tufa Petita
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 10
Narrow Minded
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Dust-pathic (link-up)
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 6
Black Sails (In the Sunset)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk the Plank Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 93
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Teflon Guerrilla Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Sails Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 59
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Someday Syndrome Narrows > Lower Narrows > Lower Narrows
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Narrowpathic Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 29
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Labor Fruits Fern's Ledge
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Fat Boys Sipping and Ch… Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sands of Time (extension) Fern's Ledge
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
TKO Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 20
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Nerve Agent Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 17
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Slim Shady Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 37
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tufa Petita Fern's Ledge
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Narrow Minded Narrows > Upper Narrows > S Narrows
 10
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dust-pathic (link-up) Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Black Sails (In the Sunset) Narrows > Upper Narrows > N Narrows
 6
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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