Elevation: 6,663 ft
GPS: 40.492, -112.584 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,696 total · 797/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn right, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Willow Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Rivers Edge
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Prince of Squeeze
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 49
Walk the Plank
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
The Eleven
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Teflon Guerrilla
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
Refiner
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 35
Black Sails
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Someday Syndrome
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Texture
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Narrowpathic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
TKO
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Nerve Agent
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Slim Shady (The Real Slim Shady…
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Narrow Minded
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Dust-pathic (link-up)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rivers Edge Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Prince of Squeeze Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Walk the Plank Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 49
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Eleven Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Teflon Guerrilla Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Refiner Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Sails Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 35
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Someday Syndrome Narrows > Narrows - Lower > Lower Narrows
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Texture Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Narrowpathic Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
TKO Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Nerve Agent Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Slim Shady (The Real Slim S… Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Narrow Minded Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - South
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dust-pathic (link-up) Narrows > Narrows - Upper > Narrows - North
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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