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Routes in Narrows - North

ATV S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black Sails S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Boiled Over S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dirt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dust S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dust-pathic S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mountaineer Route, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Narrow Beginnings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narrowpathic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Refiner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reloaded S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Safe Sport (link-up) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
TDO “technical dust out” (link-up) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
TKO S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Teflon Guerrilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teflon-Sails (link-up) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Texture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tricks Are For Kids S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unloaded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,180 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeremy Noring on Jun 8, 2014 with updates from thebehaviorist and 1 other
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A fun but relentless jaunt up a right leaning dihedral. There isn't any obvious crux on this route; just continuously hard moves without any good rest, from bottom to top. Great rock, and a great fitness test 12a to cut your teeth on.

This was incorrectly called "Bitch" for a while.

Location

On the left side of the north wall, just to the left of Black Sails.

Protection

bolts to anchors. It appears the first bolt was removed or somehow pulled out, so a stick clip is definitely nice to have on this route.

Photos

SM Ryan
  5.12a
SM Ryan  
  5.12a
I don't think this is Dirt.
The name I have is Bitch put up by Bill Boyle.
I tried to collect info from different sites and this is what I have (from Dr. topo, supertopo etc) in about 2010. New routes would not be included.
Road side - from left to right
11c- Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route.
13b- ATV. This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the ½ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to top on easier, but still technical terrain. ONe bolt (3 or 4) is tricky to hang/might be dangerous if one fell clipping. FA- Mike Call?
12c – The Mountaineer route. This climbs pulls multiple, cruxy bulges.
12a- Bitch. This route climbs an overhanging arête with excellent, continuous movement. FA- Bill Boyle
13a- Dust. Stopping at first set of anchors is 11d (called Dirt). Dust continues up through roof with longer moves and sharp holds.
12c – Textures. Good climbing which starts a little right of bolt line and pull through a mini-roof and follows the obvious weakness with a final technical crux at the top.
13a- TKO. This is an excellent route with a low and bouldery crux. It shares anchors with Textures. Jul 7, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Thanks SMR--I've updated stuff. Jul 30, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
The description makes it sound suspiciously like The Boiler (per James Garret's latest guidebook). Or is this between the Boiler and Black Sails?
The Boiler climbs a right trending dihedral then rolls onto a "slab" with difficult finger slot moves. Burly for 12a, I think the crux is solid at the grade and it comes after a fairly relentless jaunt up the dihedral. I replaced a couple dogbones which were looking alarmingly crisp. Jul 30, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
That does sound like the route, boissal. I did one lap on it, and it was an overhanging arete/dihedral that was continuously hard. At the top, it pulled onto a vertical section trending left, and then straight up to bolt anchors.

Is Bill Boyle on mountainproject? It'd be great to get it from the horse's mouth Aug 3, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Actually I just checked the book and The Boiler is listed as aka Bitch so your info is correct. I'll post a topo picture next time I go...


Here's my attempt at reconciling your info with the latest James Garrett guidebook:

11c - Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route
--> This may be Reloaded 11a already posted here and/or a route JG has as 11d - Pee-wee's Playhouse I know there are two ways to do it as described in what's already posted here: bypassing the roof at easy 11 (Reloaded) or going through the roof which is way harder (11d ++ which would be Pee Wee)

13b - ATV. This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the ½ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to top on easier, but still technical terrain. One bolt (3 or 4) is tricky to hang/might be dangerous if one fell clipping. FA- Mike Call?
--> 13c Unknown (aka Video Icon), FA Mike Call in the book.

12c - The Mountaineer route. This climbs pulls multiple, cruxy bulges.
-->12b/c - 1984, FA Boone Sped

12a - Bitch. This route climbs an overhanging arête with excellent, continuous movement. FA - Bill Boyle
-->12a - Teflon Guerrilla, FA info is correct

--> Black Sails 12b, FA Adam Griffith - already posted here

13a - Dust Stopping at first set of anchors is 11d (called Dirt). Dust continues up through roof with longer moves and sharp holds.
--> Correct info per book for 11d - Dirt and 13a - Dust

12c – Texture. Good climbing which starts a little right of bolt line and pull through a mini-roof and follows the obvious weakness with a final technical crux at the top.
--> 12d in the book, FA Boone Speed 1991

13a - TKO. This is an excellent route with a low and bouldery crux. It shares anchors with Textures.
--> Correct info per book. FA Kelly Oldroyd 1991

--> 5.10a Narrow Beginnings - Not in the book

--> 5.7 Tricks Are For Kids, FA Matt Merton & Brian Loth, 5 bolts.

I think there is at least one linkup on the harder lines, I'll look into it. Aug 3, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Thanks Boissal, I've updated stuff. I did make a note on the reloaded description that going straight over the bulge instead of to the left is probably 12- or so. Although honestly, I don't think the variation is worth listing as its own route--it's a pretty weak (and contrived) variant to the route, IMO. Aug 7, 2014
drock3
 
drock3  
 
Strenuous climbing the entire climb. Gets just a touch easier at the top but the lack of an anchor-clipping jug keeps it intense. Jun 1, 2015

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