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Routes in Narrows - South

"The 12+" or Slasher S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alma B S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Smile, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bomb Track S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Narrow Minded S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nerve Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old School S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prince of Squeeze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quocs Wok S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
River Runs Through It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rivers Edge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slim Shady S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thunder Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11c-ish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walk the Plank S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Boone Speed - 1991
Page Views: 435 total, 11/month
Shared By: Boissal on Aug 6, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Similar to the 11c which tackles the big pod to the left, The Eleven (per JG's guidebook) embarks on a journey through a slab, a pod capped by a roof and a thin upper face.
Start in the creek and climb a smooth slab via intricate face moves on small holds, eventually reaching an insecure stance inside a small pod. A bit of trickery gets you out of the pod on bomber underclings, giving you time to contemplate the second half of the route. You will be rewarded by another great resting stance if you survive the crux, a left trending affair of bigger moves on small holds and diminutive feet. Once you've regained your composure, surmount a final bulge on chossier rock to reach the anchor.
The route seems to meets with the 12++ to the right (a route which branches off from Alma) but an independent easier line of holds can be found directly above the last resting stance.

Location

The Eleven is the 2nd bolted line to the left of Alma (identifiable by the namesake graffiti about 15' up the wall). It shares anchor with a 12+ routes which splits from Alma at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.
Recognizable features include a body sized pod below a vertical crack into a dark face.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors. As usual, stick clipping the first bolt is a good call for a first try as the slab sequence is tricky and the holds always seem to be coated in dust.

Photos

D.A. LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.11d
D.A. LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
  5.11d
So. This route is the first independent line left of Alma B. It is now 3 routes to the right of Walk the Plank. It is a fabulous rock climb. It's almost 12a. Doesn't get much traffic because of the awkward belay. After I put a plank and fixed draws, it wil get heavy traffic. A must do!! Sep 11, 2016
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
This route is immediately to the right of walk the plank. It goes through a slab, and then enters a large pod. At the apex of the pod it cuts left. Probably 11+ or so. A great line, insecure at the top but some of the best climbing you'll do. Oct 5, 2014