Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: D.A. LeBaron
Page Views: 563 total · 13/month
Shared By: David LeBaron on Jun 29, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

steep, but short boulder problem into a sensitive rest, leads to pumpy 12b climbing, with a thin but fun finish.

Location

Far left of the creek side wall, to the right of Slim Shady. often has a plank leading to it if the river hasn't washed it away.

Protection

Bolts to fixed chain anchors. First bolt is a directional, for belayer.

Photos

David LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.12d
David LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
  5.12d
There used to be a 12B that shared part of this arete. During the reconstruction of the road and the flood barrier, substantial parts of the rock were broken off at the bottom. There was also a large chunk of rock that came off three quarters of the way up. The old route used to merge into Slim Shady at the last bolt. I moved the start to the right and the top to the right, rendering it and independent new line. none of the moves are the same. Jun 29, 2015
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
A really nice climb! Felt crazy hard at first, but quickly climbs down once you figure out the body positions to use the holds. The finish is great! Aug 2, 2016
David LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
  5.12d
David LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
  5.12d
The original entry moves busted out left immediately after the huge undercling. Some newer holds up right on the face were "mined", rendering it slightly easier, and slightly off route. The natural line was the former, but both are good to go. Sep 17, 2016