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Routes in North Quarry / Pinnacle Area

Boobalaty T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boobalaty (variation) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burly Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catching the Quarry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chossdergarten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Corruption S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracking Up T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hardly Huge Hanger Holes High Overhead (aka Homemade) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mandolin Wind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pinnacles Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Rubble Rouser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown by Burly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wayne's Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wide Pride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 510 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Platt on Jul 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an easy climb of the most prominent feature and namesake of this area.

Start on the flatter ground at the top of the scree field near a large boulder. Most of the climb is on good rock. As is true with the entire pinnacle, the rock down low in awful and crumbly. For this climb, the first 10-15 feet are on poor rock with unreliable gear placements. After that, you come out onto the solid rock with large cracks that take good gear. The crux is honestly not freaking out down low on the poor rock. This gets 1 star for the climb and 1 star for the cool feature you get on top of with it.

Warning: there are rappel anchors in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle. I wouldn't really recommend climbing to them from anywhere else on the pinnacle other than the route described above, since farther down the gully you will be forced to climb on 20-30 feet of the terrible rock at the base of the pinnacle.

If this is your route, feel free to contact me about it. There are 3 rappel anchors, so it's clearly been climbed.

Protection

Cams to #3 and medium nuts. An anchor can be easily set up at the top with 2 #2s, so you can belay your partner up. Rappel anchors are ~50 feet left above Chossdergarten.

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