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Routes in North Quarry / Pinnacle Area

Boobalaty T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boobalaty (variation) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burly Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catching the Quarry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chossdergarten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Corruption S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracking Up T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hardly Huge Hanger Holes High Overhead (aka Homemade) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mandolin Wind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pinnacles Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Rubble Rouser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown by Burly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wayne's Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wide Pride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 543 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route does not look very good at first glance, but hidden in the lichen are some horizontal edges and good crimp holds. The first few moves, protected by gear, are difficult, and in some suspect rock. The hardest climbing is near the first bolt. I went with the guidebook rating for this one, but it felt easier than 11b. It is hard 5.10 in my opinion.

Location

This is the crack to the right of Boobalaty which leads to a lichenous face with two bolts. The crack arcs right to left below the bolts. There is a two bolt coldshut anchor on top.

Protection

2 bolts and a small rack to a #2 Camalot. Two bolt coldshut anchor on top.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I did this again today, and it still does not seem like 11b. I would call it 10d. Mar 8, 2013
All protection and anchor bolts should be replaced. Jun 8, 2012
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Jay's description is spot on. Slightly spooky start with thin gear in rock that isn't 100%. The crux is tricky but not that difficult once you figure it out. There is a really good stance so you have a lot of time to try things out. The unwelded coldshuts are looking kind of rough. Aug 22, 2011