Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 592 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route does not look very good at first glance, but hidden in the lichen are some horizontal edges and good crimp holds. The first few moves, protected by gear, are difficult, and in some suspect rock. The hardest climbing is near the first bolt. I went with the guidebook rating for this one, but it felt easier than 11b. It is hard 5.10 in my opinion.

Location

This is the crack to the right of Boobalaty which leads to a lichenous face with two bolts. The crack arcs right to left below the bolts. There is a two bolt coldshut anchor on top.

Protection

2 bolts and a small rack to a #2 Camalot. Two bolt coldshut anchor on top.

Photos

slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Jay's description is spot on. Slightly spooky start with thin gear in rock that isn't 100%. The crux is tricky but not that difficult once you figure it out. There is a really good stance so you have a lot of time to try things out. The unwelded coldshuts are looking kind of rough. Aug 22, 2011
All protection and anchor bolts should be replaced. Jun 8, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11b
I did this again today, and it still does not seem like 11b. I would call it 10d. Mar 8, 2013