Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 583 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route is mistakenly called Rancid in the Haas/Schneider guide. The route climbs past 5 bolts with homemade hangers to a fist crack below the chains. The holes in the hangers are small and barely accepted the nose of my carabiners. For some reason, the fifth bolt hanger has a smaller hole than the others. I found this out while trying to clip. I gave the route a PG-13 for safety, because some of the hard moves are done well above the bolts. It looks like it was drilled on lead, so the bolts are at good stances and not necessarily at the hardest moves.

Location

The route is about 60' right of Cracking Up at the top of the scree gully south of the pinnacle. Descend from the fixed anchor at the top.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt rusty chain anchor. Optional #4 Camalot for the fist crack below the anchors. Big nosed biners like Wild Country Heliums will not fit some of the hanger holes.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10+ PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10+ PG13
This is an interesting route. It can take additional gear to mitigate the fear factor: a sling around the horn before the first bolt, #1 Camalot between bolts 1 & 2, #1 Camalot just above bolt #2 and/or #3.5 Camalot to the left before bolt #3, a red Alien just above bolt #4, and possibly a #3.5 Camalot above bolt #5. It is fairly stiff going up on the face slightly left of the 5th bolt before you get the fist jams right...save something in the guns for that. Also, the chains are a bit small and rusty, and there are no hangers...just thin chains off the 2 bolt anchor. Sep 15, 2011