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Routes in North Quarry / Pinnacle Area

Boobalaty T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boobalaty (variation) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burly Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catching the Quarry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chossdergarten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Corruption S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracking Up T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hardly Huge Hanger Holes High Overhead (aka Homemade) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mandolin Wind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pinnacles Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Rubble Rouser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown by Burly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wayne's Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wide Pride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 528 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is mistakenly called Rancid in the Haas/Schneider guide. The route climbs past 5 bolts with homemade hangers to a fist crack below the chains. The holes in the hangers are small and barely accepted the nose of my carabiners. For some reason, the fifth bolt hanger has a smaller hole than the others. I found this out while trying to clip. I gave the route a PG-13 for safety, because some of the hard moves are done well above the bolts. It looks like it was drilled on lead, so the bolts are at good stances and not necessarily at the hardest moves.

Location

The route is about 60' right of Cracking Up at the top of the scree gully south of the pinnacle. Descend from the fixed anchor at the top.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt rusty chain anchor. Optional #4 Camalot for the fist crack below the anchors. Big nosed biners like Wild Country Heliums will not fit some of the hanger holes.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10+ PG13
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10+ PG13
This is an interesting route. It can take additional gear to mitigate the fear factor: a sling around the horn before the first bolt, #1 Camalot between bolts 1 & 2, #1 Camalot just above bolt #2 and/or #3.5 Camalot to the left before bolt #3, a red Alien just above bolt #4, and possibly a #3.5 Camalot above bolt #5. It is fairly stiff going up on the face slightly left of the 5th bolt before you get the fist jams right...save something in the guns for that. Also, the chains are a bit small and rusty, and there are no hangers...just thin chains off the 2 bolt anchor. Sep 15, 2011