Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.77495, -105.22461 |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 1,339 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Eggleston on Dec 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This route is mistakenly called Rancid in the Haas/Schneider guide. The route climbs past 5 bolts with homemade hangers to a fist crack below the chains. The holes in the hangers are small and barely accepted the nose of my carabiners. For some reason, the fifth bolt hanger has a smaller hole than the others. I found this out while trying to clip. I gave the route a PG-13 for safety, because some of the hard moves are done well above the bolts. It looks like it was drilled on lead, so the bolts are at good stances and not necessarily at the hardest moves.
Location
The route is about 60' right of Cracking Up at the top of the scree gully south of the pinnacle. Descend from the fixed anchor at the top.



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