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Routes in North Quarry / Pinnacle Area

Boobalaty T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boobalaty (variation) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burly Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catching the Quarry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chossdergarten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Corruption S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracking Up T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hardly Huge Hanger Holes High Overhead (aka Homemade) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mandolin Wind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pinnacles Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Rubble Rouser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown by Burly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wayne's Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wide Pride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jason Platt on Jul 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle directly below the rappel anchors on a small ledge in the gully. Climb on very crumbly rock for 15-20 feet with little to no gear placements up to your left to a ledge. The climbing is probably only 5.4-5.5, but the rock makes is harder. In front of you on the ledge, there is a crack heading up over a slight overhang. You can finally place some really solid gear in this crack. Crank the overhang, and you are basically at the top.

The technical crux is at the overhang, but the mental crux is the bottom while you are climbing on very broken rock with very little protection. A fall here would likely be a groundfall, since the gear you place probably won't hold.

Even though I give this an R safety rating, this is the most solid climb on the east face of the pinnacle. I pulled off huge rocks trying to climb farther left and right of this route.

I only give this a star because the feature you get on is pretty cool. The climbing is honestly a bomb for sure down low since it is so rotten.

If this is your route, feel free to let me know. The anchors were there when I climbed it, so this has probably been climbed before.

Protection

Standard rack. There are 3 rappel anchors at the top of the climb.

Photos

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