Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 154 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Follow the tricky hand crack on the right side of the Burly Man start. The start is harder than it looks. Good gear and fun moves lead up to the roof. You can clip the first bolt from a good horizontal jug that you can't see from the ground. The crux is getting from this horizontal to the anchor. Although wild stemming is involved, it turns out to be much easier than it looks.... Listed with the guidebook grade, it really didn't feel much harder than 10+.

Location

This is just right of Burly Man.

Protection

SR and two bolts. Two bolt anchor without rings.... You can walk over to the Cracking Up anchor to get down.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
The horizontal jug (massive block) is pretty spooky. Hard to tell what is holding it in place, but it sounds solid when you pound on it. Very un-nerving trying to "not" use it, or at least reef on it as lightly as possible. The crux probably favors the small as it is really cramped for a couple moves. My wife thought it was pretty easy, but I found it pretty hard. Aug 22, 2011