Mojo Hand

A nice bouldery route that contrasts with its more endurance-oriented neighbors. Start by scrambling up detached blocks at the left end of the cave and clip the first draw (shared with Against the Grain). Traverse rightwards on a slopey shelf to a scrunched no-hands stance before the first roof.

From here, make a long gaston and crossover to get established in the roof flake. Move efficiently along to the end of the slopey flake and grab a quick shake before the powerful crux.

Cam a heel into the flake, taking careful note of the position of the rope in relation to your leg. Make a long move into a worse-than-it-looks seam, with a non-obvious hand sequence. Desperately thrutch your hands along the seam, remembering to disentangle your foot from the rope, and pump up into an awkward stance in a little capped dihedral.

Traverse right a few feet to a shared stance with Devil Doll. Complete the same finish as Devil Doll, with a couple of engagingly long pulls between good flakes and crimps before the anchor clipping jug at the lip of the cave. A quality route that doesn’t see as much traffic as its neighbors.

2nd climb from the left side of the Hole. Shares a first draw with Against the Grain (13b), but breaks right.

6 bolts, bolted anchor.