All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 1. The Hole

Skull

Name: Skull
Rating: 3.6

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in 1. The Hole

L › R R › L A › Z

	Against the Grain S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Blood Raid S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bloody Mushroom Stamp S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Burning Cross S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Devil Doll S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Final Exit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	In the Flat Field S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Lactic Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Massacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Mojo Hand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Scar Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Skull S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Skull Direct Finish S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Yowsah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	38.0449, -81.06561
FA:	Doug Reed 1991
Page Views:	5,851 total · 30/month
Shared By:	James Otey on Mar 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

For being among the easiest of the routes at the glory hole, this rig presents quite the series of challenges. Start off by climbing on a less than ideal rock-quality face, making your way around the right side of a large projecting tooth. Hunker down in an awkward position right below the roof to get ready for the business. Reach up and grab hold of a large flake with sloping jugs. Work all the way out to the lip of the roof and make a big move out right to a slopey crimp. Most people use the patented feet-cutting bro-burl to hold the swing. The deft use of a heel-toe cam on the flake allows for matching of the crimp and eventual passage to the first headwall. Stay relaxed and rest up for the second crux on a jug sidepull. From here, make your way up to the second roof and pull it using pure dyno-burl or nasty good steeps technique. From here traverse left on jugs to finish up on the same anchors as Blood Raid.