Type: Sport
FA: Bentley Brackett 2001
Page Views: 851 total · 11/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Sep 15, 2015
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Against the Grain climbs more like a boulder than a route, and consists of a short sequence of power pulling. Don't underestimate it, however, as it requires a healthy amount of core strength and pure burl ability.

Scramble up detached blocks to clip the first bolt (shared with Mojo Hand). Casual moves along big holds ease you into two bolts of easy roof flake climbing. A long move onto a sloped edge marks the beginning of the difficulty.

Shouldery gastons and crossovers along a small seam in the horizontal roof lead to a one-handed jug (which inexplicably seeps). The next crux section involves several huge reaches between surprisingly good holds. However, the feet are distressingly bad and/or absent.

Another powerful stab into a sloping seam, and then a core-intensive lurch for a sloper finally give way to some easier crimpy face and anchors.

Location

The very leftmost route in the Hole. Shares the first draw with Mojo Hand, but continues straight into the roof along a flake.

Protection

Good bolts and permadraws

Photos

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