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Mojo Hand

5.12d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
FA: Doug Reed 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 1. The Hole
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice bouldery route that contrasts with its more endurance-oriented neighbors. Start by scrambling up detached blocks at the left end of the cave and clip the first draw (shared with Against the Grain). Traverse rightwards on a slopey shelf to a scrunched no-hands stance before the first roof.

From here, make a long gaston and crossover to get established in the roof flake. Move efficiently along to the end of the slopey flake and grab a quick shake before the powerful crux.

Cam a heel into the flake, taking careful note of the position of the rope in relation to your leg. Make a long move into a worse-than-it-looks seam, with a non-obvious hand sequence. Desperately thrutch your hands along the seam, remembering to disentangle your foot from the rope, and pump up into an awkward stance in a little capped dihedral.

Traverse right a few feet to a shared stance with Devil Doll. Complete the same finish as Devil Doll, with a couple of engagingly long pulls between good flakes and crimps before the anchor clipping jug at the lip of the cave. A quality route that doesn’t see as much traffic as its neighbors.

Location

2nd climb from the left side of the Hole. Shares a first draw with Against the Grain (13b), but breaks right.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Monty on Mojo Hand. Photo Credit: Aaron McCartney
[Hide Photo] Monty on Mojo Hand. Photo Credit: Aaron McCartney