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Routes in 1. The Hole
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[Redacted] S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Against the Grain S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blood Raid S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloody Mushroom Stamp S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Devil Doll S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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In the Flat Field S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lactic Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Massacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mojo Hand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scar Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yowsah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,930 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | ChrisHau on Jun 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The hardest line in the Hole. Climb Lactic Acid Bath (12d) through its undercling crux. Instead of heading right to the good rest on Lactic, traverse leftwards on one of the Hole's signature sloper rails. Make a tall reach into the dead-horizontal roof and traverse into a jug seam with good heel hooks.
Rest up as well as you can on this dangly shakeout and limber up your fast twitch muscles. The good heel hooks and jugs rapidly disappear in the last five feet of the roof . Make a reach around the lip to a crimp and make a core intensive move to match on a similar dog ear crimp.
Flex your abs, cut your feet, and paste your foot on a chip at groin level. Huck from this scrunched position over the lip. A few more moves to the anchors give you time to pop your hernia back in.
Rest up as well as you can on this dangly shakeout and limber up your fast twitch muscles. The good heel hooks and jugs rapidly disappear in the last five feet of the roof . Make a reach around the lip to a crimp and make a core intensive move to match on a similar dog ear crimp.
Flex your abs, cut your feet, and paste your foot on a chip at groin level. Huck from this scrunched position over the lip. A few more moves to the anchors give you time to pop your hernia back in.
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