Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard 1991
Page Views: 947 total · 14/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

The hardest line in the Hole. Climb Lactic Acid Bath (12d) through its undercling crux. Instead of heading right to the good rest on Lactic, traverse leftwards on one of the Hole's signature sloper rails. Make a tall reach into the dead-horizontal roof and traverse into a jug seam with good heel hooks.

Rest up as well as you can on this dangly shakeout and limber up your fast twitch muscles. The good heel hooks and jugs rapidly disappear in the last five feet of the roof . Make a reach around the lip to a crimp and make a core intensive move to match on a similar dog ear crimp.

Flex your abs, cut your feet, and paste your foot on a chip at groin level. Huck from this scrunched position over the lip. A few more moves to the anchors give you time to pop your hernia back in.

Location

Breaks left off of Lactic Acid Bath after the undercling traverse and goes through a clear high roof.

Protection

8 bolts Climb-tech permadraws, bolted anchors.

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