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Routes in Far Side - Lower Buttress

Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Darren Wiemeyer, Nat Cromwell
Page Views: 697 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

This steepening dihedral offers fun stemming up a pocketed corner that will get you a little pumped. Gear is a bit tricky to place and the crux is right toward the top. Belay on the ledge above at a two bolt anchor.

Location

On the lower, west facing wall past Boneless Chicken Ranch and Seymore Frishberg. Scramble around the corner from those routes. The first big corner is "Lichen It" (5.8-), the next corner is "The Farthing" Belay from above. Walk up and off to the left to get back down. Long slings to TR.

Protection

One each cams, fingers to #2 Camalot, plus one #4 cam. Belay on ledge above at a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.8 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8 PG13
We liked this route more than Lichen It. The protection is solid but it takes time to find good placements. A double-bolt anchor about 15' beyond the top provides the best anchor. May 5, 2014
Glad you got on them Floyd. I think Jerry recently added the anchor.

Don't miss top roping the faces to the left of each of these corner/crack climbs. really fun. May 22, 2014

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