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Routes in Far Side - Lower Buttress

Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 1,694 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.

Protection

3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Boneless Chicken Ranch.

If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.

The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....

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Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.9 R
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.9 R
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton

Bolts on this route are scary. Optional: Bring a couple cams (3/4" to 1.5") to protect the middle of the route between the second and third bolts. Mar 12, 2010
hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too. Sep 4, 2012
The first two bolts have been replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. You still need gear and solid technique to make this a safe lead.... certainly not X though? PG ok. Sep 11, 2013
Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
super exposed moving through the first 2 bolts, i found that this area is perfect for tricam placements in the pockets. fun but spooky indeed Apr 2, 2018

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