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> Lower Buttress
Seymour Frishberg
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.6 from 10
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scorpio S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton |
| Page Views: | 2,331 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.
Protection
3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Boneless Chicken Ranch.
If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.
The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....
If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.
The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....
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