Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of 50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we address them in group. It's a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.

Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.

The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."

Getting There

The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for poison oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other deciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Far Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Far Side Chimney
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Shute-Mills Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
New Tradition
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Tradfest
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 10
Seymour Frishberg
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Kola
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Mystery Hole
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Cereal Killer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 8
Atlas Shrugged
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Scorpio Rising
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
The Chief
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 7
Atlas
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Spellcaster
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Continental Drift Whiplash
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Boneless Chicken Ranch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Far Side Chimney Shute-Mills Area
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Shute-Mills Route Shute-Mills Area
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
New Tradition Shute-Mills Area
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Tradfest Shute-Mills Area
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Seymour Frishberg Lower Buttress
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Kola Kola Spire
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mystery Hole Shute-Mills Area
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Cereal Killer Shute-Mills Area
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Atlas Shrugged Shute-Mills Area
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
Scorpio Rising Lower Buttress
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Chief Shute-Mills Area
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Atlas Shute-Mills Area
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Spellcaster Lower Buttress
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Continental Drift Whiplash Lower Buttress
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Boneless Chicken Ranch Lower Buttress
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Far Side »

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for Poison Oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other diciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

PS- the rock here is a little better than at The Bubble. Aug 20, 2002
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back. Mar 25, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

What ever happened to the good old fashioned sandbagging that once gave the Far Side it's character? Feb 9, 2011
Matt..C
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Matt..C   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Watch out for ants around the top set of routes. They were pouring out of the trees and you cannot get away from them. Jul 4, 2011
If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.8," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest." Nov 14, 2013