The Far Side Rock Climbing
Routes in The Far Side
|18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|GPS:||38.651, -122.619 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of 50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we address them in group. It's a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.
Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.
The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.
If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."
Getting ThereThe trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for poison oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other deciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.
At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Far Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season