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Routes in Far Side - Lower Buttress

Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric Berghorn, Jerry Dodrill, Andrew Berge
Page Views: 923 total, 22/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jul 8, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb was top-roped by Ken Stanton and Robin Madgewick circa 1990 following the F.A. of Boneless Chicken Ranch. It shares the anchor of Boneless Chicken Ranch which is the next climb over 20 feet to the left. Ken Stanton gave this top rope variation the name "Continental Drift Whiplash". Scramble up a lower angled section to reach a high bolt (25ft.) above the sloping corner system. A couple of smaller (.75) cams are useful to protect the climbing above the steep bolted section of this cliff.

Location

As you pass the Shutes/Mills route continue along the lower trail for 200 ft. past the start of Step to the Left. The access trail climbs down another 100' ft. before traversing back to the base of the "lower buttress". Continental Drift Whiplash (now) is the first climb encountered on the right side of the lower buttress. Belay in front of a large boulder. Continental Drift Whiplash and the lower buttress are clearly visible from the Bubble Rock/Fire Road overlook area over 3/4 mile away.

Protection

This route was equipped for lead with 5 S.S. Glue-in bolts in early 2014. Small (.5 -.75 size) cams are very useful to protect sections of this climb, particularly off the foot ledge between the 4th and 5th bolts. Clipping the 5th bolt from the ledge is awkward and having a .75 cam (or two) in place protects a potentially long fall. This cliff has a history of being climbed using "mixed pro" and efforts were made to preserve this style of climbing here... A few original bolts (25 years old) have been left in place around this cliff. A new chain anchor installed at the top out eases rope retrieval for these climbs.

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