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Routes in Far Side - Lower Buttress

Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 1,118 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill. Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Boneless Chicken Ranch is the first climb on the rock, with a very easy beginning, leading to a vertical face.

Once you get onto the vertical portion of the climb, it seems like one long crux. Lots of pocket fun.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared by Seymour Frishberg. Not run out on the difficult portion. Avoid rope drag if you're top-roping.

BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up.

Photos

The first four bolts have been replaced with SS glue-ins. Sep 11, 2013
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Great route - BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up. Aug 3, 2011
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.11b
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.11b
Bring a few finger sized cams or nuts. Jan 10, 2011