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Routes in Lower Buttress

Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Berghorn, Andrew Berge
Page Views: 1,358 total · 26/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details


This short sustained face climb was visited by Chris Summit, Jerry Dodrill, and others back in the 1990's. It took some searching to locate this shady obscurity. If Spellcaster provided a safe flat landing it might stand out as a quality V2 Highball. Alas, with the route traversing above a steep ravine complete with a bad landing, it is now a sport climb.


This route is located at the far western facing side of on the lower buttress formation. Continue hiking 200 feet past the Shutes/Mills route on the lower trail beyond Step to The Left. The trail continues downward for 100 ft. before traversing back towards the base of the lower buttress. Spellcaster is farthest route to the left of the "lower buttress" routes past Continental Drift Whiplash, Boneless Chicken Ranch, Seymour Frishberg, Lichen It, Farthing, and around the corner from Scorpio Rising. Belay from the base of Scorpio Rising or around a boulder to the left if desired.


4 S.S. Glue-in bolts protect this climb, which tops out on a sloping ledge w/anchor and lower off rings.


Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Very fun, short and sustained route. Oct 19, 2014

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