Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Berghorn, Andrew Berge
Page Views: 1,402 total · 25/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

This short sustained face climb was visited by Chris Summit, Jerry Dodrill, and others back in the 1990's. It took some searching to locate this shady obscurity. If Spellcaster provided a safe flat landing it might stand out as a quality V2 Highball. Alas, with the route traversing above a steep ravine complete with a bad landing, it is now a sport climb.

Location

This route is located at the far western facing side of on the lower buttress formation. Continue hiking 200 feet past the Shutes/Mills route on the lower trail beyond Step to The Left. The trail continues downward for 100 ft. before traversing back towards the base of the lower buttress. Spellcaster is farthest route to the left of the "lower buttress" routes past Continental Drift Whiplash, Boneless Chicken Ranch, Seymour Frishberg, Lichen It, Farthing, and around the corner from Scorpio Rising. Belay from the base of Scorpio Rising or around a boulder to the left if desired.

Protection

4 S.S. Glue-in bolts protect this climb, which tops out on a sloping ledge w/anchor and lower off rings.

Photos

Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.11a
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.11a
Very fun, short and sustained route. Oct 19, 2014