Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: BM
Page Views: 403 total · 6/month
Shared By: NC Rock Climber on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This route is the last route on the face with EGG. It is before you get to the gully that separates this face from the Walking Dead Arete.

You start in an alcove under a roof. Work your way up to the roof with a few face mores and some stemming. Exit the roof to the right, work you way up the face to another roof, exit right again, then proceed to the top via easier and easily protectable terrain. Shares bolted anchor with EGG and DEH.

Protection

Standard rack, nothing bigger than a #3 C4.

Photos

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NC Rock Climber
The Oven, AKA Phoenix
  5.10c/d
NC Rock Climber   The Oven, AKA Phoenix
  5.10c/d
I added this route after doing it yesterday and not finding it in the database. I found getting established in the stem box under the roof and working myself out of it to be the crux. I thought the opening moves were burly and committing, but the protection was abundant. IMHO, this is an awesome route. It is harder than EGG and DEH, but just as good if not better than those classics. It was dirty when we did it, and did not appear to have seen many ascents. Considering the quality of this route, I am surprised that it doesn't get more traffic. Nov 3, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c/d
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c/d
Finally got on this one too -- what an awkward and stout start! The stemming aspect of the start didn't really work for me and I was very happy to have a #5 to shove in the wide crack before pulling up and over the roof. But, I do agree that this is a climb well worth doing and that the lower section is terrific. It does get chunky and a bit loose up higher as the difficulty eases off. Crazy start and be sure you've got your #1 (red) BD Camalot placed well for it! Jun 18, 2014