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Routes in Main Wall - Center

Caduceus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Closer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doubts Even Here T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Emission T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Euphoric Recall T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything's Gone Green T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Further T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gambler, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gear and Moaning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Gone Grey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Race S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GungHo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Indecent Exposure S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Vida Loca T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little District in the Neighborhood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Need Em Brain T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No White Flag S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Peacenik S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Proposal, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redneck Protester S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scrambled Legs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SemperFi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slate's Day Off S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake in a Tree T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vagina Envy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vertical Addiction T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vitamin M S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking Dead Arete T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Hippies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yin Yang S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Derek Weiss
Page Views: 105 total, 1/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Starts directly above the cold-shut bolted belay of Everything's Gone Green. Climb easy 5.7 on gear for first 35 ft. to first bolt above ledge. difficult onsight but w/ the right beta both roofs go easy 11. You can bail right at the last roof if you're too pumped and climb past the little tree. Rap 100' from two cold shuts (one 60m rope) to E.G.G anchors. Watch the ends of your rope on this rap! 60m rope just touches ledge.

Protection

Eight bolts to two bolt belay at top of buttress. Plus pro to #1 Camalot for start.

Photos

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Jimbo  
I can't use thin holds, I specialize in low angle jug hauls.

Hope to spend a several days at ISO this fall. Great area!!!

Strong work by all the FA folks. Sep 3, 2009
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
yes Jimbo the 2nd roof does pull to the right, yeah maybe it is contrived to avoid the tree over there but I do it on thin holds and firmly believe it is only 5.11; The hardest part of sending this route is reading the line. As far as loose stuff- if you stay away from the right corner below the 1st roof you'll be fine. Aug 29, 2009
Jimbo  
OK, there is no way going straight up past the bolt on the second roof is 5.11. Mid .12 would be a conservative rating. Besides the climbing takes you to a stem on the column to the right and then to the little tree, going straight up is contrived and way hard.
The first roof is a hoot, however.
There is also some big loseness on this route that will take out the belayer when it goes. Climb careful. Nov 2, 2007