Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Rangel et al
Page Views: 2,999 total · 23/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Getting established on the steep start is difficult, then the final clip is a tad far, but clipping off a jug. That is pitch one. The next pitch is the crux, move off a good right hand to a tips sidepull and a high left foot made this an awkward rock over. Then a difficult finish to boot.

Location

From the ledge/trail next to Great Race, 4th class to the large Oak/ledge above and look for bolts right of Warhippies.

Protection

10 bolts to climb to top (if you climb the third pitch of Warhippies)

Photos

Laurel Arndt
Phoenix
Laurel Arndt   Phoenix
Thanks mannny for freaky picture, fun consistant moves on P1, P2 has great moves and than they become desperate, being yogalicious will help Jun 21, 2008
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.12a
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.12a
I get that look all the time from you! Jun 22, 2008
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.12-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.12-
Yogalicious would definitely have helped on 2nd pitch! First pitch is great, but it's not clear whether to climb straight over the bolts with crimpy nonexistent holds or move right with smooth, fluid, much more fun climbing that it also easier.

It is possible to rap these climbs (Gone Grey, War Hippies, Peacenik) with a 60 m rope. 60 m reaches the main ledge from anchors on top of first pitch of War Hippies and Peacenik. It also reaches the start of Peacenik from the top of the second pitch, after which it's a moderate downclimb to the main ledge, or a second rap. This second pitch anchor is what you need to stop at when rapping from the top. May 8, 2011
RyanJames
  5.11d
RyanJames  
  5.11d
Peacenik is a GREAT climb, especially when linking with the top pitch of warhippies. The crux is also height dependent that is much, much harder the shorter you are. I'd say a solid 5.12 if you're under 6 feet tall and 11+ if you're over 6'. Overall though, this climb is badass. Apr 30, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.12-
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.12-
Yup, having now done the 2nd pitch clean and being well under 6', I can safely say that the crux move is height dependent. Reaching that key hold is way, way hard for us shorties!! And, wow, is that 3rd pitch ever terrific -- well worth getting to it. May 31, 2013
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Pretty fun to link up this into last pitch of warhippies all as one pitch.

bring runners May 23, 2017