Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Manny Rangel
Page Views: 875 total · 6/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Description: Face and cracks on east-facing arete of the huge buttress located L of Transmission. Clip the first bolt then natural pro and more bolts to a body length roof (crux) for pitch 1; 4th class 40' to gain the top of the buttress and the anchors for Remission. Pitch 3 begins in a crack on the belay ledge. Bolts and pro bring you to a 5' roof split by a crack in the center. Climb above the roof on natural pro to the anchor.

Protection

bolts, small pro to #2 camalot

Photos

Mike
Phoenix
  5.11
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11
Lots of fun. I remember the initial gear section (above the first bolt) being a bit fiddly but not too bad. The first roof is great! Jul 13, 2009
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Great climb--an absolute must do! Sep 13, 2011
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11
I was a bit hesitant to jump on lead because of the looks of the gear from the ground. But as it turns out bomber gear drops in no problem and the climbing is really great. A handful of micro cams works well. Pulling the roof was tough. May 8, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11b/c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11b/c
Found the second roof to be harder, but perhaps that was a function of this being the last climb of a hard set of days. Pretty awesome route and I found the gear to be straighforward and solid. Remember to bring enough for the 2nd pitch, where a #2 or #3 will help ease nerves above the roof, as will a 0.5 between some bolts. May 31, 2013