Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner
Page Views: 881 total · 6/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

just left of Friend of the Devil (shares the same anchor) steep thin arete, 80ft

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

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BenClimbing
  5.11+ PG13
BenClimbing  
  5.11+ PG13
Don't be surprised to find a bail biner at the second bolt on this route. Reason 1 : the 5.11 rating seems a bit sandbagged for the movement on this section of the climb and it would be very difficult to cheat up to the next bolt. Reason 2: The climbing from bolt 2 to bolt 3 is very tenuous and commiting with a do or die move with bolt 3 (as of yet unclippable)in your face to an unknown hold with a fairly ugly fall under you if you guess wrong.
I'm not posting this as an accusation of bolting negligence. In fact, I'm not sure this line could have been bolted much better. This is just the way this climb is. If you don't already know exactly where the holds are and what you are going to do to get to them before you start this route you may find yourself in a scary spot. Oct 17, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.11+ PG13
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.11+ PG13
I have lead this route a few times, did not get the onsight. If you don't want my beta, stop here.

The moves to clip the third bolt, for me, are way to the right of the arete on a thin half-moon edge nearly level with the bolt. I clip here and pray not to fall. Jan 29, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b/c
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b/c
on the bright side, if you do blow the third clip you are already way out over exposed air. If you've thought to anchor your belayer in you surely will not hit any(thing/one). Nov 5, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b/c
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b/c
as for the rating- I've been told it's harder than either No White Flag or Submission. That said I believe it is at most 11c. It is more technical but less pumpy than either of the afore mentioned routes. Nov 5, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Got on this by a silly mistake (thought it was another climb) this past weekend and bailed without going through the crux, but after trying various options and concluding that it was most definitely not a 10c!! Now that I read this I understand how I will try it again, but can safely say the moves are harder than either of the above, harder rated climbs. Don't know about the lack of pumpiness since I didn't complete, but am very psyched to try again with Manny's beta. Oct 15, 2012