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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Tyler Hogan & Christoph Riedl
Page Views: 1,253 total, 25/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This modest looking climb is actually quite good, with powerful compression moves and a very fun dyno.

Start standing with your right hand on a sloper sidepull at 5-6 feet and your left hand on a high angled sidepull crimp at around 7 feet. Pull off the ground and make a long reach to get your right hand to a good hold on the right arete. Sort out some feet and dyno for the lip. Stick the swing and finish out with a mantle that is a bit more difficult than it first appears.

This climb is somewhat morpho since the span between the two aretes is fairly big. It might feel easy for tall folks. It might be impossible for those on the shorter side to make the span.

There is the possibility for this to be done from a sit start, using a small right crimp and a weird sidepull/pinch for the left. This feels signficantly harder. Perhaps v9ish?

Location

This climb is located on a boulder just uphill from 'Up In Smoke'. It is located to the right of 'Tradster' and 'Last But Not Least'.

Protection

A couple of pads would be ideal

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Graham- That's what I figured, but I agree that it looks quite hard. It seems like maybe a hold has broken? Perhaps I'll give it a shot next time I'm in NH. Sep 1, 2016
Okay, so after some research I found that Last but not Least starts same as Tradster and traverses up and right up the blank slab just around the corner from this. It got a blue square in the underground book, but I looked at it and it looked pretty impossible. If anyone has done it please chime in. Aug 31, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Did it via the the dyno/no hug version today. I might like that way better! Super fun move to the lip. The sit still feels really hard to me... Aug 17, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V5
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V5
I love lines like this, simple and dynamic. Not to be missed. Aug 10, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Andy- 6'4"??? That's cheating! :)

I changed the grade to v5+ since that's the current consensus. I'll be happy to update as the grade becomes more solidified. I'm not that attached to the grade either way. I'm more psyched that people are really enjoying it. Apr 29, 2014
definitely easier for the taller people. Im 6'4" and it felt pretty easy to me. it was my first v6 and i did it with the right starting hold and the right jug soaking wet. really fun though! Apr 28, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Mike--

I could easily see it being 5-ish. Given that wingspan plays a large role in this problem, I didn't want to sandbag the shorties out there.

A shorter friend of mine (who climbs v10) had to grind his face against the rock just to be able to make the move out to the arete.

I haven't tried Bryce's dyno from the starting holds (and won't get to for quite a while) so perhaps that will eliminate the wingspan dependence.

Either way, I'm always happy when people share their opinions/thoughts. That is the best way to get a consensus! Glad you enjoyed it. Nov 21, 2013
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V5
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
  V5
another fun addition. felt a little soft for a 6 but still was fantastic and absolutely worth the trip out. Nov 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
No worries, Matt. Glad you enjoyed it!

Footage of this problem begins at 2:36

vimeo.com/79342137 Nov 16, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V6
I really enjoyed this route. Very good movement and not over until you top it out. A very worthy addition, thanks for scrubbing it up and letting us all know it is out there! Nov 12, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Sweet! Glad you enjoyed it. I thought I might have seen you out there today but I don't know exactly what you look like. It would have been good to actually meet! (That will have to wait for another time because I'm flying back to Colorado tomorrow.)

Try 'Red Right Hand'! Nov 9, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V5
This line is quite fun! If anyone is wondering, yes, it's possible to skip the hug and dyno straight to the lip. The sit certainly felt V8/9. Nov 9, 2013
I believe I did the sit on Saturday. Felt around v8ish. But I'm 6 feet tall so that may have some effect. Anyway it is a very fun climb and worth the effort. Oct 21, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Given the obviousness of the line, I'm sure this problem has been climbed in the past. A few friends of mine scrubbed this up recently and we thought it would be a worthwhile addition to the site. If anyone has any info about the line that they would like to share, feel free!

I believe 'Last But Not Least' (described in the NEB guidebook) actually climbs the wall to left of this, though to be honest I don't really understand where that line is supposed to start or end.

The sit start would be a cool addition. Oct 20, 2013