Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: Tyler Hogan & Christoph Riedl
Page Views: 2,228 total · 23/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please read the Covid warning in detail below - Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

Description

This modest looking climb is actually quite good, with powerful compression moves and a very fun dyno.

Start standing with your right hand on a sloper sidepull at 5-6 feet and your left hand on a high angled sidepull crimp at around 7 feet. Pull off the ground and make a long reach to get your right hand to a good hold on the right arete. Sort out some feet and dyno for the lip. Stick the swing and finish out with a mantle that is a bit more difficult than it first appears.

This climb is somewhat morpho since the span between the two aretes is fairly big. It might feel easy for tall folks. It might be impossible for those on the shorter side to make the span.

There is the possibility for this to be done from a sit start, using a small right crimp and a weird sidepull/pinch for the left. This feels signficantly harder. Perhaps v9ish?

Location

This climb is located on a boulder just uphill from 'Up In Smoke'. It is located to the right of 'Tradster' and 'Last But Not Least'.

Protection

A couple of pads would be ideal

Photos