Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Jake Perry?
Page Views: 754 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jake Perry on May 19, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please read the Covid warning in detail below - Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

Description

If you like Essentials but wish it were longer, then you'll love this route.

Start matched on a good flake crimp, pull off the ground with some difficulty and then head straight up using a slopey mono pocket, decent slopers and foot smears, tricky high steps, and a hard hand/foot match up high that could be avoided by trusting your feet on "eh" smears.

The giant flake at the top sounds pretty hollow, but I don't think it'll come off unless you're using a crowbar.

Personally I think the best way to get down is to walk to the arete to the left of where Red is, have someone place some pads and spot you, and then hop down.

Location

On the Butthole boulder, if you're looking at Red it's around the right side on the tall slab. If you're looking at the hug, turn around and look to the left, this climbs the slab just to the left of the boulder that Bradley's Dyno is on.

Protection

1 big pad and a calm head.

Photos