Type: Boulder, 7 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Apr 17, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Sit start with left hand on the arete, and right hand low on a small crimp side-pull. Get a right foot smear and pull on with difficulty. Move right hand up to a diagnol crimp rail and then bump the left hand up the arete with difficulty. Go right hand out to a good flake, and choose your feet wisely.
Grab the pinch on the arete and the small crack for the right hand and continue up the arete or do a small dyno to the top lip.

Starting one move in is still a sit start and is slightly better and goes at around v2. Start with the right hand on the diagnol crimp rail.

Location

If you are facing "Up in Smoke" or "The Big Ocean" this rock is the one to the left that touches the boulder. This problem awaits on the backside of the small boulder.

From "Red", Look towards "The Hug" and slightly left, this is the short slab, the climb starts down and left.

Protection

One Crash Pad

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V0
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V0
I used the lowest start holds pictured and I can't see this being anything but v0, standing on the start foot is a no hands rest and it's jugs to the top. I very much appreciate the development though. May 23, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V2
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V2
Wow. Either we really messed up with the foot beta for the first move or you didn't start at the right holds. In the picture I couldn't find the right hand we used, so I just made the "v" be in the general area I thought it was in. Where we did it was one hard move (the first) and then a v1 or v0.

Honestly though starting higher felt like a better problem. Besides, the Den needs more easy problems! Thanks for trying it Ian!

Did you check out the slab we did just to the left of this? It's not hard but it had some good movement and a little pocket, I called it "eye of the devil." May 24, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V0
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V0
I started in the right place, the choice of right hand doesn't matter though because you just stand up on the left hand and everything's a jug from there. May 25, 2016