Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,258 total · 23/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Apr 19, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

59 Opinions

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Start with both hands on the chalked hold to the right of the asshole, with the same rigth foot as for the Big Ocean. Cross through with the right hand and work out the edge of the roof to the left. Top out on the arete on the left side of the boulder.


Same as The Big Ocean


Pads and spotters


Lanky   Tired
This is one of those problems that can feel terrible until you figure out your precise beta. I found the pocket really tweaky until I got the body position right. Jun 23, 2008
Pat McGinn  
The guidebook says a northeast classic... I would agree. I love this problem and it is one of my favorite ascents that I have done. Sep 7, 2009
Lakewood, Colorado
JEC   Lakewood, Colorado
Found this in last summer's vid collection.
vimeo.com/14906211 Mar 4, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
vimeo.com/17141437 Dec 26, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yup another up in smoke vid... but this one is mine! :)
youtube.com/watch?v=IPh8y2o… May 6, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
More beta fodder @ about 2:15
vimeo.com/53565022 Nov 15, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This climb is nowhere near deserving of 'classic' status. Unique starting holds (for Pway), followed by repetitive movements to a somewhat awkward move pulling the lip. There are many climbs in Devil's Den alone that are so much better, in my opinion.

Probably a good first v7 (albeit soft one) for people, because there's only one hard move followed by good holds and good heel hooks. Oct 18, 2013
I did a climb that was left of Up in Smoke when you are facing it. It's sort of on a little hill. Its a pretty hard, but not so tall, compression feature that is right next to a small tree. Does anybody know what this climb is? I though it was around v7/8 Oct 19, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Tony- I know exactly what you're talking about. Did you do it from the sit or the stand? We were thinking possibly v7ish from the stand and perhaps v9 ish from the sit. Definitely a bit morpho as shorter folks probably won't be able to span the holds and taller folks might find it easy. I'm not sure it has a name. It's possible that it is a problem called 'Last But Not Least' but I thought that climbed the face left of the problem we're describing. Either way, it's really good and worth seeking out. I'll try to get some pics and post it up some time in the next few days. Oct 19, 2013
The climb I'm describing is literally like 25 left of Up in Smoke. I squat-stared with a rounded sloper with my left hand, and a 4-finger, pretty bad crimp with my right. I then bumped my left hand to a triangle-shaped side pull crimp. Then it was a few difficult compression moves to the top. Probably like 8-9 feet tall. Oct 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO

I posted the problem here: 'The Hug'

Check it out. And let me know what you think.

Not sure if the sit has ever been done. Oct 21, 2013