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Routes in South Rabbit Ear

Balls Away T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Arc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mom's Apple Pie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Normal West Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Northwest Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Face Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Rib T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Ingraham, Frank de Saussure, George Goedecke, Ron Thomas
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

From the top of the first pitch of Balls Away (go straight up some 30 feet, then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face), go straight up one easy pitch on phenomenal holds, then follow a great fault slanting up and to the right to the summit.

Location

On West Face of South Rabbit Ear.

Take to the pretty, miniature, triangular West Face, about 300 feet high at a prominent shoulder, which projects out of it at the bottom, somewhat left of center. Climb unroped as high as possible on this shoulder.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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