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Routes in South Rabbit Ear

Balls Away T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Arc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mom's Apple Pie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Normal West Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Northwest Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Face Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Rib T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad
FA: Dick Ingraham, Karl Horak, Lou Horak, George Goedecke, and ?
Page Views: 144 total · 3/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

From a point about 200 feet to the right of the great gully, blackened and smoothed by water runoff from Mom's Apple Pie Gully above, take to the rock. A steep section, employing hand traverses, gets you up the first 20'. Then go up fairly steep rock to a good belay spot about 100' above the beginning. Continue along the lower lip of the great innermost arc-like fault on easy, but rotten, rock to the meeting with the Mom's Apple Pie Gully. The Outer Arc parallels this one about 200 feet up and to the right.


On the East Face of South Rabbit Ear. This pretty, triangular face is very prominent from Aguirre Springs. Approach from there.


Standard rack


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