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Routes in South Rabbit Ear

Balls Away T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Arc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mom's Apple Pie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Normal West Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Northwest Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Face Pinnacle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Rib T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 11 December 1955 D. Schluter, K. Olhausen, J. Urbain.
Page Views: 543 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Slightly longer and slightly more technical than Northwest Face. The West Ridge is fairly broad and was described by Ingraham as fourth class, but you're likely to encounter a few steep walls with good exposure that may lead you to think this route has some fifth class terrain. When I first climbed the route, I ended up in a large right facing corner for 100 ft. However, it seems futile to try to pin down one correct way to climb the west ridge. Instead, enjoy simply meandering through the block ledges.

Location

Approach from the gully between Middle and South Rabbit Ears. Take to the rock on the west ridge as soon as possible and follow the general lay of the ridge for 600 ft. About 200 ft from the summit is a large shoulder which makes a nice picnic spot.

Protection

Extra light rack.

Photos

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