Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Dick Ingraham, Clem Ota
Page Views: 149 total · 2/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

A fine route on steep, firm rock.

P1: The first pitch goes straight up some 30 feet, then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face.

P2: Next pitch traverses right some 20' to a bolt, then oozes around the bottom of a prominent rib, then up a dihedral and over the top of the rib to a good belay spot about 40' above the bolt.

P3: The next pitch is an easy diagonal traverse up and to the right along a large fault, but only about 30' long (to a scooped out place with a bush!).

P4: From this belay climb straight up about 20', and go up very steep rock to the left of an overhanging bit (a great hold, once you get high enough). You arrive at a comfortable ledge. Mantle onto a chest-high crescent crack and clip into the bolt. Then search to the left for any avail¬able holds. The secret here is to ooze leftward, then get the left foot high onto "The Great Grey Foothold," which certain negative spirits have classified as a mere discoloration of the rock. You go up some 10 to 15 feet without any decent holds, then seize a good finger hold and traverse left to security. The summit is 20' away.

Apex Variation of P4: (first ascent: Dick Ingraham, George Goedecke, 5.6) When the "overhanging bit" is reached, go up right for a very steep section of 10 to 15 feet with a sort of layback. Thus you get into a V-shaped cleft, descending from the apex of this triangular face, and occupied by a clinging tree. Chimney out at the top through this tree.

Frank's Variation: (First ascent: Frank de Saussure, Ron Thomas, 5.6) When the belay spot for the forth pitch of Route 3 is reached, go right along the "large fault" another 30 feet. Then traverse left and up toward the "Apex" on small holds. You arrive at the cleft, occupied by the clinging tree. Finish as in Apex Variation above.


On West Face of South Rabbit Ear.

Take to the pretty, miniature, triangular West Face, about 300 feet high at a prominent shoulder, which projects out of it at the bottom, somewhat left of center. Climb unroped as high as possible on this shoulder.


Any bolts mentioned in the description are likely to be quite old/ancient.


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