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Routes in South Rabbit Ear

Balls Away T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Arc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mom's Apple Pie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Normal West Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Northwest Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
South Face Pinnacle (historical) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Rib T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
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Type: Trad
FA: Mark Losleben and ?
Page Views: 204 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old and may date as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. Treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

Climb up to the pinnacle in one medium length pitch from the South Rabbit Ear/Rabbit Ears Massif saddle. This pinnacle was first reached by rappelling from the summit (J. Goncz and T. McCalla.)

Location [Suggest Change]

This sharp spike juts out of the bottom part of the unclimbed upper South Face of the South Rabbit Ear. Approach from South Rabbit Ear/Rabbit Ears Massif saddle.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack.

Photos

Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8+ PG13
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
  5.8+ PG13
As described above, this route is approached by hiking up to Rabbit Ears saddle between SRE and RE plateau. From the saddle hike down to the south and trend towards the east and the west face of SRE/Pinnacle. You have to navigate over thick brush and a rock wall (traverse above this wall) to reach the base of the climb. The gully and chimney is very obvious.

As with many of the older routes and ratings, this route is much more difficult than the 5.6 rating of old. Most of the climbing is within the 5.6-5.7 range but a few steep moves felt closer to 5.8 or 5.9. The rock is pretty rotten throughout and several large, loose rocks fell off during my climbing. The danger factor of loose and rotten rock definitely make this route feel more difficult. This is too bad because this route is the easiest know way to access the south face of South Rabbit Ear without rappelling from the top.

The route basically follows a gully and chimney that is prone to frequent flows and rock fall. Without the loose rock, this could be a decent route. I found an old piton, some weathered webbing, and a rusty 1/4 in. bolt and hanger on the route. The top has the old bolt and a newer bolt for a rappel/anchor. Apr 17, 2018

More About South Face Pinnacle (historical)

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