Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face

Desert Shield S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wind Burn T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1994
Page Views: 1,705 total · 28/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Aug 6, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Narrative as provided to me by Scott on 8.6.13

After using the Desert Shield as a work out, I spent more and more time in the corridor trying to find the next line. But every route I checked out never really worked out, as again the quality of the rock. I had gotten so much flak for reinforcing some holds on Desert Shield with glue, I wanted to prove I could find a climb without the such requirements, after many failed starts, I found a line that started and ended on different feature, but followed the desert varnish the entire way.

It really was like three different climbs in one; a 12C overhanging start got you to a 13B traverse to a desperate crux V10. With zero chance to rest you had to fire up another 13B section to finish the route.

The spring was dragging on and the temps raising, and still no red-point. I had all but given up for the season when, with a bloody hand and three failed red point burns that day, I decided against all logic to rest 50 minutes and try one last time.

Almost right away, I blew the first move and my finger burned, but climbing higher and higher I was feeling surprisingly solid, before I knew it, I was through the crux and on to the last 30' feet of solid 13B. The last move to the anchor is the easy, but I wasn't going anywhere, but somehow muster the power and with one mighty effort, nailed the 11A reach and clipped the anchor. After promising the late John Bachar never to glue in the Park again, I named the climb Integrity.

Ascents:

2nd ascent Randy Leavitt

Alan Moore 2007, Alex Honnold 1/2012 and Tyson Atwell ???

Protection

10 bolts, anchors. Long runners are helpful.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Integrity

Printer-Friendly