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> Turtle Rock
> Turtle Rock - S Face
Sexy Sadye
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face
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Desert Shield S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Charles Cole, Steve Anderson (1983) |
| Page Views: | 1,838 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there.
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