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Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face

Desert Shield S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wind Burn T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Steve Anderson (1983)
Page Views: 736 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rappel (all bolts 3/8")
optional .25" cam/

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10d PG13
Richard Shore  
  5.10d PG13
Excellent and bold, great rock and line. 1st bolt at 10', do the math for the rest.. keep your sh@t together! Dec 15, 2014
Phil Esra
  5.10d R
Phil Esra  
  5.10d R
At 5'6", the moves below the 2nd bolt are 5.10, and falling = decking. Dangerously run out. You might be able to get an offset mastercam or alien to stick in the shallow flare, but you wouldn't wanna fall on it. Fun, improbable slab moves if you're solid at the grade. Mar 18, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
All the bolts on this were replaced in Spring 2000. Feb 17, 2010