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Turtle Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Turtle Rock

Turtle Rock - East Face 13 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Turtle Rock - South Face 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Elevation:	4,200 ft
GPS:	34.0104, -116.1666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	47,442 total · 193/month
Shared By:	Randy on Mar 9, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

This very large formation lies south of the large Real Hidden Valley parking lot and immediately adjacent to (south of) the picnic areas. It features routes of the widest possible variance in grade of any formation in the Park (from 5.3 to 5.14a).

The Northeast face is somewhat broken and features a number of popular 1 and 2 pitch easy to moderate climbs. These include Bisk (5.4); Blistering (5.5); Wandering Tortoise (5.3); Easy Day (5.4) and Luminous Breast (5.8).

The South face lies in a sheltered corridor and is generally overhanging, with rock that ranges from good to poor. All routes are hard (5.12 to 5.14) sport routes. Satanic Mechanic (5.12a/b) and Desert Shield (5.13a) are the best known and most sought after routes. Integrity (5.14a) is the hardest route on this wall, involving a long traversing section.

Getting There

To reach the Northeast and Southeast faces, walk left around the rock (Northeast face) and continue left, scrambling up boulders (Southeast face).

To reach the South face. walk around the far right side of the rock (right of the Pillars of Pain), then turn left at the So High Boulder and then cut slightly left through boulders to reach the corridor along the base of the South face. Routes are encountered in the following order Abandoned Project; Desert Shield; Integrity; Jesus Lives; and Santanic Mechanic.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turtle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 43 ● Easy Day Trad Turtle Rock - E Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 10 ● Ninja Turtle Trad 2 pitches Turtle Rock - E Face
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 4 ● Hand in the Cookie Jar TR Turtle Rock - E Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Touche Away Trad Turtle Rock - E Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 10 ● Rehab Trad Turtle Rock - E Face
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Sexy Sadye Trad Turtle Rock - S Face
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 51 ● Satanic Mechanic Sport Turtle Rock - S Face
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 12 ● Desert Shield Sport Turtle Rock - S Face