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Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face

Desert Shield S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wind Burn T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines (Nov, '90)
Page Views: 362 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts just up and left of Sexy Sadye and follows a lieback/undercling flake past a couple bolts before joining Sexy Sadye at its final bolt. It's possible to place gear at maybe one or two spots on the flake, but it wouldn't actually make the climb better protected. Get ready to crank some tough moves while standing above the second bolt. The bolts are bomber and the fall from the crux is clean, making this seem a bit less serious than many other "R" routes in the park; however, if you're not up for the lead this one can be easily toproped after climbing Sexy Sadye.

Sun morning to noon.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rappel

Photos

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