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> Turtle Rock
> Turtle Rock - S Face
Satanic Mechanic
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 67
votes
Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face
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Desert Shield S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01001, -116.16633 |
| FA: | Roy McClenahan & Doug McDonald, February 1988 |
| Page Views: | 7,479 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Mar 9, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of Desert Shield. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).
Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.
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