Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face

Desert Shield S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Integrity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Jesus Lives S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kippy Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lieback and Lingerie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Satanic Mechanic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sexy Sadye T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wind Burn T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Roy McClenahan & Doug McDonald, February 1988
Page Views: 2,787 total, 16/month
Shared By: Randy on Mar 9, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of Desert Shield. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).

Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.

Protection

Bolts to sport anchor (1/2"). Draws are all you need. To set a TR, climb up and left to above anchors (belay probably needed).
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
All lead and belay bolts are now 1/2" stainless steel with stainless steel hangers courtesy of the ASCA. Feb 28, 2017
Gabriella Venus 1
  5.12b/c
Gabriella Venus 1  
  5.12b/c
This was my first j-tree 5.12. Felt harder than some 12c's I have done elsewhere. Great route with exciting sequences over OK bolts. Jan 13, 2017
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
 
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
 
This hardware could DEFINITELY use an upgrade. These are the types of bolts that fail, and this route is TOO GOOD.

Anyone out there in J-Tree doing upgrades these days?

cheers,
Luke Feb 29, 2016
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
This route presents a dilemma: try to clip mid crux move, or pull through then clip. The fall isn't the best if you don't clip, with a risk of hitting the lower angle stuff below, but if you aren't tall it's very hard (impossible for me) to clip before committing. Once you've pulled the move and have the bolt clipped, a couple more hard moves on thin edges lead to easier climbing to the anchor. In any case, have an aware belayer. Nov 30, 2012
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12b
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12b
Seeing as this route recently celebrated its twentieth anniversary, perhaps it should be gifted with some new hardware. Mar 24, 2008
Josh Beck
  5.12b
Josh Beck  
  5.12b
This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating. Jul 6, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.12a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.12a
Great route on mostly great rock. We set it up as a TR, but plenty leadable. As said, easier climbing leads to a nice, asthetic series of moves 3/4 the way up with a tough exit. In the afternoon shade, the route is a nice escape from the sun. Jun 27, 2004