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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: FFA by Phillip Hranicka & Kevin Evanson 6/11/06
Page Views: 1,592 total, 30/month
Shared By: another Chad on Aug 4, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Route 66 starts by reaching above a cave and hoisting yourself up on good holds but not much for feet (5.10). Once over the cave, a short section of easy climbing will take you to a large ledge and an anchor. Clip the anchor with a runner and continue into the meat of the climb. Mostly good crimps and edges on a slightly overhanging face will generate a healthy pump if the grade is near your limit. There is a good rest high up which will allow some recovery. Get back what you can because there's still some hard climbing left to go and not-so-obvious sequences. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.

Location

Route 66 is on the left face of the Mordor Wall (shared with No Nuts and Dad's Nuts). Look for the short cave and a line of bolts above. Get's more shade than most of the climbs at Ozone.

Protection

Bolts. Bring a runner to clip the midway anchor or back-clean it.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11c
The upper crux is awesome. Well protected, very crimpy, and slightly overhung, and sustained as far as Ozone routes go. The climbing up to the first anchor is forgettable, but the upper half makes up for it! Probably my favorite 5.11 crux at Ozone. Apr 10, 2015
Kev
Kev  
The route to the left is more like 10.c.....IMO. Bring some mid size gear or its a little run to each bolt. Fun climb. Jul 3, 2014
another Chad  
 
The next (bolted) line to the left is Getting Your Kicks. Loose rock and 5.11a.

Chad Sep 13, 2013
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11c
What is the nice bolted climb to the left of Route 66? It seems to go at 5.10- or so. Sep 11, 2013
another Chad  
 
One of the best 5.11's at Ozone!

Chad Aug 5, 2013