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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,946 total, 24/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on May 12, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.
Recently a 40' extension has been added to the arete above the anchors, taking the line to the top, and while no move on the extension is all that hard, fighting the pump can be quite difficult. 95' to the 2nd anchors.

Location

This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge.

Protection

9 bolts to the first anchor, 3 more if continuing to the top, plus draws for the anchors (incase the sport clip anchors are missing). Stick Clip is basically mandatory.
Route has been rebolted with solid SS bolts.
Johnny Ink
Portland
 
Johnny Ink   Portland
 
That ledge is completely ON route. If using it makes the climb easier, than drop the grade. It's laughable to tell us we aren't supposed to use a hold that is within reach. Sep 2, 2017
Charlie Egan
  5.11c/d
Charlie Egan  
  5.11c/d
Why is the ledge to the right considered off route? I believe I could have reached the last clip from my rest stance, which is more than enough to qualify as being on route in my mind. I agree that a good shake before the final moves brings the grade down a few notches, but so be it. May 9, 2015
The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose is because they were lag bolts. These were pulled and replaced March 2015 and included the anchor station at the top of the Meth Rage route. Congrats to those who climbed it and scathed past a potential ground fall should one of these had failed. Mar 20, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11d
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11d
An extension has been added to The Crumbling, as of 3/2/15.
The route now continues up the arĂȘte above the anchors to an upper anchor via 3 bolts. There are a couple of good rests in the extension, so the grade has not changed, though you may find the insecure moves of the finish quite hard after doing The Crumbling.
Get on it! 95' tall, 60m rope will reach the ground from the upper anchor.
Route was first TR'd by Jason and Kevin, but never bolted. Extension bolted and the FFA done by myself and Charlie Egan. Mar 5, 2015