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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tumbling, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dustin Brubaker, Martin Seidenschmid ~ 7.14.07
Page Views: 4,408 total · 40/month
Shared By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Approach flared vertical crack and follow up to roof. Continue, finding least resistence out right, or, opt for more exciting moves straight through roof.

Location

At left side of Mordor alcove, between The Humbling & Grace

Protection

Bolts & Gear to 2"

Photos

bryans  
props to the FA party for not bolting the short-lived hand crack. it also takes a #3 BD along with #2s. May 27, 2009
Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
My climbing partner used a #2 cam between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Mar 14, 2010
Dustin Ebel
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Dustin Ebel   Portland, OR
  5.10a
I climbed this last fall and really enjoyed the route. I didn't end up placing any gear but really liked the feel and the movement. The traverse under the small overhang and then climbing out it was the best part. I did throw off a few small pieces of rock that were on the ledge. Feb 2, 2011
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.9
Agree with the others about the quality of this one. Didn't think it needed gear anywhere. Definitely one of the better moderates at Ozone and as good as Carrots for Everyone in my opinion. No move eclipses 5.9, however, and there are plenty of rests... Jul 1, 2011
overall great climbing, especially when the rest of the crag is sopping wet! i threw a #3 in the hand crack at the small runout in order to avoid hitting the deck. But in retrospect i think it was a bit of wasted energy, as the climbing to the next bolt is all solid (although there are 1-2 loose rocks in the hand crack). The crux move around the overhang felt sort of stout for a 5.10a, especially when comparing this route to others of the grade at ozone. But it could just have been my less then ideal beta and slightly damp hold up top. Aug 26, 2013
tantan
 
tantan  
 
This route is awesome!! i TR'd it this afternoon. Arms get pumped out real quick, for me anyway, but there is a great spot for a nice Dyno! about 7-8 ft. have fun with it! Oct 24, 2014
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10-
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10-
Stout, fun climb. No gear needed. Get on it! Jan 15, 2015

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