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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: FFA September 2006 by Kevin Evansen & Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 126 total, 3/month
Shared By: another Chad on Feb 6, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Meth Rage starts on the ground and climbs the corner broken and loose corner up to the the mid Route 66 anchor. The climb then follows an unmistakable large, steep dihedral to the top of the cliff. The rock on Meth Rage isn't very solid but the position is exhilarating.

Protection

Gear to 3". Fixed anchor.

Photos

Kev
Kev  
The climb actually starts on the ground and climbs the corner up the the mid Route 66 anchor. Then up and right to the upper anchor on The Crumbling. Jul 3, 2014
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.8
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.8
Rock is solid enough. All the holds I grabbed were solid but results may vary. Choose pro locations carefully. A Tickzy move near the end. Difficult to clean on rappel - anchor is off several feet to right of crack for a fun pendulum. I would not set a top rope on this route due to huge pendulum potential. Enjoyable climbing if you like it a little spicy. May 21, 2014