Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tymun Abbott/ Shane
Page Views: 1,036 total · 16/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Sep 19, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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This route climbs past the bolt near a broken crack and then proceeds to follow a bolt line up and slightly right. There are a few awkward blocks and ledges down low but the climbing becomes more sustained and steep higher up. Towards the top you trend left to a set of anchors. It is possible to traverse right at the top to descend off of the Route 66 anchors (and also setup a top-rope on that route).


This is the first bolted line in the Mordor sector and is just right of the blocky crack/corner of Dad's Nuts.


10 or so quickdraws


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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
I led this route last week and it felt comfortably within the 5.10 range. It is far easier than route 66 next door. If consensus pushes it up into the 10d/11a range I will adjust the route grade. Sep 19, 2013
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
This is definitely easier than Route 66 but given the other routes in the crag felt like 11a. Mrs. Norris on the other hand felt like a definite step up from Route 66 Mar 20, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Felt like 11a to me. A couple decently cruxy spots with a pump build fits it nicely into the 11- range I think. Cool route. May 25, 2016
In 2015 there was a stumpy tree that many folks used to make the moves onto the first ledge, past the first bolt. Now that it's gone, maybe the opening moves bring the grade up a tick. May 26, 2016
There are some big blocks (about the size of 12 gallon crate) on the ledge just after the first bolt that are really loose. Also there is a very big hornets nest just under the second bolt ledge stance. I got stung four times by the hornets. Sep 8, 2018