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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up: Crumbling-to-Humbling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tumbling, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tymun Abbott/ Shane
Page Views: 1,019 total · 16/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Sep 19, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route climbs past the bolt near a broken crack and then proceeds to follow a bolt line up and slightly right. There are a few awkward blocks and ledges down low but the climbing becomes more sustained and steep higher up. Towards the top you trend left to a set of anchors. It is possible to traverse right at the top to descend off of the Route 66 anchors (and also setup a top-rope on that route).

Location

This is the first bolted line in the Mordor sector and is just right of the blocky crack/corner of Dad's Nuts.

Protection

10 or so quickdraws

Photos

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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11a
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11a
I led this route last week and it felt comfortably within the 5.10 range. It is far easier than route 66 next door. If consensus pushes it up into the 10d/11a range I will adjust the route grade. Sep 19, 2013
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.11a
This is definitely easier than Route 66 but given the other routes in the crag felt like 11a. Mrs. Norris on the other hand felt like a definite step up from Route 66 Mar 20, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.11a
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.11a
Felt like 11a to me. A couple decently cruxy spots with a pump build fits it nicely into the 11- range I think. Cool route. May 25, 2016
dmPete
  5.10d
dmPete  
  5.10d
In 2015 there was a stumpy tree that many folks used to make the moves onto the first ledge, past the first bolt. Now that it's gone, maybe the opening moves bring the grade up a tick. May 26, 2016
There are some big blocks (about the size of 12 gallon crate) on the ledge just after the first bolt that are really loose. Also there is a very big hornets nest just under the second bolt ledge stance. I got stung four times by the hornets. Sep 8, 2018

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