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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Kelton Rappleyea ~ 9.25.07 (Prep. M. Seidenschmid)
Page Views: 2,233 total, 21/month
Shared By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Exhilarating exposure & position! Navigate your way up to large roof crack. Punch in bomber gear (small tcu or ball nut/s). Layout, jam, then crank past the cruxy lip. Keep your composure and finish on the bolted headwall (optional piton).

Location

East-end trail drops down at Mordor Wall/Alcove. Located at the right side of alcove, directly below large roof/crack.

Protection

Bolts & Small gear (thru roof)

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
You can place a 1" cam deep in the 2nd hand jam, but I found that for me anyway, it interferes with the best hand jam and makes the move a little more difficult. That's all I've found, unless you want to jam a 5" into the wide part, but that's also kinda in the way, and set back a bit far for rope drag and the whip from the crux.
I wouldn't recommend the ball nuts or #00 small cam (as mentioned in the original description. If that cam blows while you are pulling the face crux before the next draw, you are most likely hitting the deck from 35' up. I'm already more than halfway to the ground on the whips with the current cam holding. Apr 12, 2017
Sorry to hear your cam got pilfered Micah. I'd like to give AotD a try this summer. Not having any offset cams, is there anything else that will substitute well? Is that the only gear?

Chad Apr 12, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
I'm planning to work this over the summer, so I've placed fixed draws/gear on the bolts and anchor for the summer. Cool route for sure, looking forward to the send! As far as the cam, I found a .5/.4 offset X4 is absolutely bomber and doesn't interfere with any of the jams. (that is, until someone stole it recently. :/ ) May 21, 2016