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Routes in {10} Mordor

Angle of the Dangle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crumbling, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Lord S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Getting Your Kicks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grace S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hellboy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Humbling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meth Rage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mrs. Norris S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slack Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Step Child S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tofutti Cutie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Shane Polizzano, Dave Sowerby, Tymun Abbott
Page Views: 3,382 total · 31/month
Shared By: orclimber on Feb 3, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Ascend 15ft of easy terrain to a bolt on the right of an obvious roof. Burl through the roof and pull onto the arete (crux). After another tough move getting onto the face, easier ground follows above. Continue up and right to one last move below the anchor.

Location

Start 10ft right of Stepchild in an alcove.

Protection

8 Bolts. Fixed draws on the first two bolts.

Photos

dmPete
  5.12b
dmPete  
  5.12b
Refreshed the biners and permadraws a bit: new cable draw at second, cable draw with new biner on third now. Perma at last bolt removed.

If you can clip 4th, you can finish the route. If you don't make the move to 4th bolt, now there's no need to climb Step Child to recover gear from 3rd bolt. Jul 23, 2017
Theo Badger
  5.12b
Theo Badger  
  5.12b
Did route a while ago. I remember it being a pretty fun bouldery route! Sep 3, 2016
Charlie Egan
  5.12b
Charlie Egan  
  5.12b
Placed fixed draws on the first two bolts. If they get manky, PM me and I'll replace the biners or bug someone else to do it. Sep 30, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.12b
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.12b
Really fun and powerful crux. Once you get onto the headwall though, moving right into the finish is rather contrived, as you are standing directly below, and with reach of the direct finish into Stepchild... traversing right and then up seems a bit weird. Either way its a fun route. Sep 14, 2015
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
 
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
 
Fixed draws on the first 3 bolts will probably be a nice addition, with a 8" chain on the second one. Getting to the anchor when there's dirt/debris and moist lichen on the shelf is fun... Jun 24, 2013

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