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Routes in 2. First Buttress
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Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leather Nun, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Oh, It's You Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sticky Situation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed (1992) |
| Page Views: | 1,888 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Jul 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section dont get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof. Jam one limb, two limbs, maybe three? When you feel sufficiently wedged, clip the 5th bolt. Finish with a thrilling compression feature followed by a stroll to the anchor. Your enjoyment of this route will likely come down to your ability to securely jam the crack.
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