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Routes in First Buttress

Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leather Nun S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Oh it's you Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tarbaby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1992)
Page Views: 637 total, 12/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section don’t get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof. Jam one limb, two limbs, maybe three? When you feel sufficiently wedged, clip the 5th bolt. Finish with a thrilling compression feature followed by a stroll to the anchor. Your enjoyment of this route will likely come down to your ability to securely jam the crack.

Location

Travels out the longest section of roof climbing at the first buttress. Look for the defining crack feature in the roof.

Protection

6 bolts + 2 Bolt Anchor

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